Silk Gauze is a popular fabric for fine needlework, especially miniature projects for dolls houses. With stitch or HPI (Holes Per Inch) counts ranging from 32 to 112, and a fine flexible fabric, silk gauze allows high detail, while remaining flexible enough to use for upholstery. It requires slightly different techniques for working compared to working on linen or canvas. Silk gauze is very hard on thread, causing it to shred if not properly worked, and as it is a protein, it is easily stained and needs care when cleaning.
Available Sizes of Silk Gauze
Silk gauze is available in 24, 32(34), 40(42), 48(50), 56, 60, 72 (75), 84, 112 stitch counts (holes per inch). Stitch counts in brackets are additional sizes listed by specialist suppliers. Most stitch counts are listed as being "approximate" so close range counts are likely the same fabric. The gauze is very similar to a transparent netting, and is made with a "Leno" weave which helps to interlock and stabilize the fibers.
Needle Sizes for Working on Silk Gauze
Needles recommended for various counts are #26 tapestry needles for 32/34 HPI gauze, #26 or 28 for 40/48 HPI or a #10 crewel with a sharp point, and #12 sharps for 54/56/60 and 72 HPI gauze.
Threads
Threads for various gauze sizes depend on the coverage and stitch you use, but for continental or tent stitch use 3 plies of embroidery cotton (DMC)for 24 count gauze, 2 plies of embroidery cotton for 32 count. For 40/48 count you can use 1 ply of embroidery cotton. For 54 count and up use silk thread only, embroidery cotton is not fine enough, and will shred on the finer counts of silk gauze.
Suggested Stitches
The best stitch for working on fine silk gauze is the continental or tent stitch. Threads should be started using a waste knot which is removed after the thread is caught beneath stitches.
Silk Gauze is very abrasive to thread, avoid using long lengths of thread. For the best effects use sections of thread between 6 and 12 inches long.
Viewing Your Work
Work silk gauze over a towel or piece of fabric that gives the greatest contrast to the view of your work. Finer gauges of silk gauze will require the use of magnifying glasses or headbands in order to work comfortably. As the gauze is almost transparent, in order to see the grid of gauze you may need to change the angle of your work when working in strong sunlight or under good task lighting.
Tips for Working With Silk Gauze
It is very important to wash your hands before you work on a project. Silk is a protein and holds onto oils from your hands. These oils can eventually cause your work to discolor. Most silk threads are non washable as their dyes are not completely fast, so projects worked in silk thread cannot easily be cleaned if they discolor from oils on your hands as you worked. If you do need to clean silk based needlework, take it to a professional cleaner, preferably one that has experience with needlework.
Slant your needle when you enter an already occupied hole from the front of the work, that way you avoid splitting the thread already in the fine hole.
Keep the back of your work neat, run the ends of threads vertically or horizontally underneath rows of stitches. Avoid carrying threads diagonally across the back of your work. Silk gauze is transparent, so you need to be extremely neat on your back work, or fill in the ground.
Don't expect to be able to re-use thread if you have to take out stitches. The abrasive action of the gauze on your thread will cause the thread to shred after a few passes into the gauze. Take out the stitches placed in error and start again with a new section of thread.
Holding Silk Gauze
Silk gauze often tears if mounted directly into a frame or hoop. Experienced miniature stitchers have learned to hold it by hand, but for beginners it is easiest to either stitch it to another fabric (with the base fabric cut away beneath the silk gauze) and mount the stronger fabric in the hoop or frame with the gauze centered in the frame, or mount the gauze on a card or illustration board backing with the gauze taped over an opening in the card. This tape method is the easiest way to work on miniature projects and is very clearly illustrated in Janet Granger's tutorial: How to Mount Silk Gauze on Card.
Advantages of Using Silk Gauze - Silk gauze in higher hpi counts is very flexible. This makes it extremely useful for detailed upholstery projects where the gauze must be moulded over or around the edges of furniture. The same problems apply here however as when you are trying to hold silk gauze in a frame, the fabric is easily torn and so must be moulded carefully to the piece to be upholstered. The highly detailed designs possible on higher count silk gauze are an added bonus.
Needlework Projects Suitable for Work on Silk Gauze:
