To cut out the basic pieces for your doll's shirt, look carefully at the pattern on your fabric. This pattern is for a woven shirt, and the center lines of the sleeves, back and shirt fronts should match the grainline of the fabric. If the pattern pieces are not laid on the fabric along the grainline they may stretch or sag when sewn or washed. Most woven fabrics have a 'selvage' or finished edge that runs with the grainline along the fabric. If your fabric has a selvage, you can measure back from it to fold and mark your fabric grainline.
Finding the Fabric Grainline - If you are using 'fat quarters' or other fabrics which may not have a selvage, check the grainline by pulling a thread near the edge of the fabric. If you pull the thread out of your fabric it will show you where the grainline is, and you can use that to make sure your pattern pieces line up with the grainline.
For the plaid fabric I used for my shirt, the lines of the plaid are woven, so I laid out my pattern pieces to match the lines woven in the fabric.
Matching Fabric Patterns - If you use a patterned or striped instead of a plain fabric you may want to check that prominent designs are not going to be in the wrong place on your finished shirt. One good reason you transfer your shirt pattern to underlining fabric is that it allows you to see through the pattern to adjust for patterns and lines. If you are using a plaid or striped fabric, try to make sure the seamlines at the shoulders have matching lines when the seams are joined. Also try to make sure you cut your front shirt sections so main design lines or patterns match to balance the design evenly across the shirt front.
Fold Fabrics to Cut Matching Pieces - The best way to cut matched fabric pieces is to fold your fabric in half along the grain line, matching any lines on the fabric by pinning through one or two prominent ones in the area you will cut so they stay lined up. Lay your shirt pattern pieces on top of the folded fabric. You will need to cut two shirt fronts, so line up the center line of the shirt pattern with the grainline close to the fold of your fabric and pin the pattern in place. For smaller pattern pieces you can also treat them with "post it note" glue sticks or Spray Mount artist's adhesive, which will stick slightly to the fabric after the glue has dried, holding the pattern in position while you cut it out. Lay out your sleeve pattern along the seamline and cut two sleeves at once but cutting through two layers of your fabric. Lay out the back pattern along the fold line of the fabric and cut one back piece from the fabric with a fold along the center back.
